Peru. Bookended by lost luggage and now that I’m home, Covid, it was an amazing trip. Peru is very keen on mask wearing as are the airlines serving Lima and Cusco, but not the US, so I’m blaming the Covid on LAX (ie lax), but I could be wrong. I’m just SO very grateful that I was well my whole trip. Urpichay Sonqo (Offering You the Dove of My Heart in Gratitude).
I first want send my Munay (love) and immense gratitude to our Peruvian friends Karina, Fanny and the whole family for their wondrous care on this journey. Illary Chaska Spiritual Center, Karina’s vision, sits at the foot of Mama Veronica/Huaka Willka, sacred mountain. She is a gorgeous, tender mountain and Karina’s vision of a sacred center is embraced perfectly by Her. Each morning I’d go out and sit with Her and watch the rising sun grace her caves and contours, old terraces, grandmother arms. Lucas (the dog) and I would do a little qigong, some breath work, and just sit and tend. Lucas has a love bucket that always seems to need more!
Pray
I’m going to begin with Pray, because this pilgrimage to Peru is a huge part of my spiritual path. And I think the 70by70 challenge for me is too, really. When I dive into a mountain lake, or row on gorgeous bodies of water, or even just take some moments to bless and profess gratitude, I create and nurture a relationship with this amazing element of Mother Earth. When I went down to the river to pray….those lyrics go through my head quite a lot.
Since 2016 Q’ero medicine from the Andes of Peru has become more and more a part of the tapestry of my spirit journey. That year we happened to stay in an Airbnb casita owned by my now teacher, Celia Blackwood, as we traveled to Tucson for a Josh Ritter concert (Sermon on the Rock tour). There’s more to that story but that was how we originally connected. I think it was in 2018 I committed to the Andean Mesa building process, Tawantinsuyu Mesachakuy and was initiated as a full Mesa carrier in this Q’ero Shaman tradition after a year of study, work and ceremony. We move beyond the context of our personal healing and grow into being of service for the greatest good. Coming from a place of gratitude, humility and respect for all life, we step up as caretakers of the earth and stewards of the world around us. So this journey to Peru these years later was a huge step on this path of service, of heart, of Munay. So this was no ordinary trip.
We were accompanied most days by Paqos from Q’eros, a remote mountain region whose people were still honoring and tending the Apus (mountains), rivers, trees, lands, waters. We began our second day with a water cleansing ceremony (Hucha Rumi) and a blessing down at Riti Mayu (snow river) on the property. This was followed by a Haywarikuy (Despacho) ceremony–introducing ourselves to the Apus, waters, clouds, and lands of this country and gratitude for our safe journey. That night, we offered the despacho to sacred fire, staying unattached to outcome, singing our gratitude as the offering lifted to the sky transformed to smoke and flame and grace.
Between our morning ceremonies and the evening fire, we journeyed to Ollantaytambo for some lunch and our first foray into the Incan archaeology sites. Everywhere, everywhere, there are signs of this great and very short-lived civilization. Terraces, everywhere. Some still in use, most just roadside “oh look, there’s another one!” So, Ollantaytambo. Temple of the Sun (straight up, first adventure with altitude), Temple of the Wind, Temple of the Condor (we sat in silence, meditated), Temple of Las Nustas (ceremonial bath places for the queens/qollas)–yes, I was tempted as water is still flowing there, but refrained :). I did my water blessing there connecting with Pachamama, Pachatata, Mama Cocha, all that is seen, all that is unseen…
Nearly every day a despacho at a sacred site. Our paqos Juan Apaza Quispe and Juan Hauman Machacca did a Munay (love) despacho at Unu Orqo that was powerful and sweet. We blow our prayers into kintus (3 coca leaves) and offer those prayers into the mandala. The messages flowed from serpent rock into my heart to do a heart practice every morning, to listen to what that will be and become for me.
More prayer places…Temple of the Moon (near Cusco)–We were on our own (sans Paqos) one of these places that is totally awesome, powerful, and very few people there. Very womb like, fertile….feminine!
Moray–one interpretation of these amazing terraces is that this was an experimental site for growing corn, each terrace a microclimate. We were off to the side in a small, less visible place in meditation and prayer as our Paqo Juan held space from above for this feminine gathering and touching of Pachamama.
Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, Tambomachay–I led a simple qigong practice at the top of Sacsayhuaman, the Incan fortress/Temple of the Sun above Cusco. It felt very deep and old. We got there early so had a lovely, quiet visit. Could spend WAY more time there! Q’enko was an astronomy site and Tambomachay the place of cleansing waters prior to ceremonies. The waters still run and it’s unclear where they are coming from. So much! At each site we opened sacred space, we learned about history, but mainly we were there to honor the sacred and to honor this tradition we have chosen/been chosen to follow to be of service to Pachamama (Mother Earth). I cleansed my kuyas (mesa stones) in the little creek that ran behind where we were sitting.
Machu Picchu was amazing but also really regulated. We had been in some sites that we had nearly to ourselves, this was very different! And for good reason. Here’s a good summary from Khan Academy re this site and its need for protection.
Here is my little miracle of Machu Picchu story. If you get my newsletter you’ve already heard it. It was day 4, my lost luggage had not been heard from. Got up at 4:00 am to catch the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, where we then caught a bus to Machu Picchu. We had made our way up the stone steps and were looking down into the site. We stepped aside from the trail to offer prayers of thanksgiving and connection. As we prayed, bending down to connect with the Earth, Fanny’s phone rang, which is odd enough in such a remote place! She hangs up and says subtly, “Betsy, your luggage is in Cusco”. Well, that whole scene just seemed like a miracle to me. I’m in Peru, I’m at Machu Picchu, I’m praying, and my luggage finally arrived. I just started crying at the immensity of it all. I had not been worried, as my Mesa was in the suitcase along with all my hiking stuff for later in the trip. I knew my Mesa would not miss the hikes! A relief though!
More prayer stuff…Churches & Temples–In the center of Cusco lies the center of the world, the belly button, THE Cusco/Q’osco. In the church/convent of Santo Domingo are ancient Incan walls and rooms. This was and is the Koricancha, the Temple of the Sun. It is here there is an opening into the earth right in the center of the site. As I meditated here, it felt like there was an umbilical cord going into this center connecting the world we know with mystery and with Munay. Worth the 15 soles admission alone. But the site also includes a beautiful painting of seqes (an explanation of the Incan calendar and holy sites/wakas), and a painting of Incan interpretation of constellations and the Milky Way. They saw the darkness as well as the light in their constellations. The other church some of us spent a bit of time in was the Basilica on the main square. There are some ancient things of interest to those of us following this path 🙂 Decent article on the Koricancha here.
Eat
The food was unbelievably good and fresh. Truche (trout) was amazing, cooked in a variety of ways including encrusted with roasted quinoa. Carmen was our cook for the times we spent at the guesthouse. She got up early, made tea, cooked, cleaned up and then started our next meal. We had fresh juices, bowls of finely chopped fresh fruits, yogurt/kefir, bread, palta (avocado), ham, coca tea, amazing coffee, and then often eggs or pancakes. Best soups ever for lunch and/or dinner, mostly all different. Quinoa soup surprisingly good–the fresh herbs and veggies were clearly a main player in all the dishes.
Carmen was joined by her dad, Elmer, as cooks at our mountain camp at Soraypampa, our base for 3 nights exploring around Apus Salkantay and Humantay. Grand finale of food…it was to be Alice’s birthday the day after we returned to Illary Chaska from our mountain camp. The morning we were to leave the mountains (camping at 12,631 feet elevation), she was surprised with a birthday cake at the conclusion of a substantial breakfast. And it was GOOD and moist. Imagine the feat of baking at that elevation, in a tent, on a little stove….Elmer! Another Elmer story …We hiked from Soraypampa to Humantay Lake, a gorgeous glacier fed lake at 13,900 ish feet elevation (1300 foot climb in 2.6 miles). It took us about 3.5 hours to get up there, lots of resting, breathing, coca leaf chewing. We were resting near the top, just a few hundred feet from the lake. Elmer shows up with our lunch–I’m talking tin plates, silverware, cups, rice, a meat dish, and a big thermos of coca tea (for 12 of us). And he arrives with a smile on his face and says “one hour!” He made that climb with a full lunch for 12 in one hour. I wish I had a picture of this but his blue shirt and triumphant grin live on in my memory.
Hike
Well, you heard about the main hike to Humantay Lake via my Eat section above. This hike was a true pilgrimage–we took it slow, we connected and prayed, and we were initiated with a Hartun Karpay at the lake, opening and clearing of our three main energy centers, connecting more cleanly to Apu Humantay and the Mama Cocha (big glacier lake) there, and received a kuya (stone) for our Mesas. We ended up hiking back at dusk and dark, in the moonlight. Tired, but transformed. And then, of course, an Elmer/Carmen amazing meal and some stargazing before climbing into our sleeping bags with a nalgene bottle full of hot water for the cold night.
Shop
With an exchange rate of 3.8 soles to $1, a beautiful array of textiles, and a trip of all women, shopping was sort of a prayerful experience. 🙂 Meret’s shop is the best. She’s a friend of Celia’s who has studied textiles at the University and is totally the sweetest person. Go up the hill from the Plaza de las Armas at the KFC (yes) and continue upward to the right. There’s a little sign with an artist’s palette (I think) and that’s her shop. She will tell you what’s authentic, what is 100% alpaca and what is a mixture. And she has some amazing old things, I mean old. Powerful little shop. We also bought textiles and garments from our Paqos and Karina’s sister Anna. And there are vendors anywhere you might look. It’s good to buy from people you know, that way you know more about the quality and the energy that comes with the items. Here’s Juan spinning for Philippa, his wife, for her weaving work.
Water Immersions!
Lest I forget, I immersed in the Urubamba River after our Machu Picchu excursion. Also immersed in Riti Mayu, the creek that runs through Karina’s property. Riti Mayu means snow river–the water comes from Apu Veronica’s glaciers, so a bit cold! My count is up to 29!
Luggage Story Conclusion
I did get my luggage before the hike, so grateful! Karina’s nephew, Giuseppe (yes, Karina’s family is everywhere and amazing), works at the airport and was instrumental in pursuing my lost luggage. So now, back in Cusco, I was awaiting a ride to the airport to fill out paperwork and get my luggage. And then how was I to carry this 45+ pound bag up the steps in my motel? I was kinda dreading the airport scene, struggling with the language (though I knew I’d have help), etc. Who but Giuseppe pulls up in front of our little motel? And he has my bag. I don’t have to go to the airport!! Hurrah!! And he brought it up the stairs. What a family!!
Conclusion & Gratitude
So much gratitude to my teacher Celia for offering and organizing this trip, and all the wonderful humans with whom I got to share this experience: Julie, Erin, Brooke, Kristin, Nicole, Alice, Jan, Chris, and Helena. And to Karina of course, her sister Fanny our guide (the photographer below), Paqos Juan Apaza Quispe and Maria Pauccar, magnificent cooks Elmer and Carmen, Paqo Juan Hauman Machacca (not pictured here)…Karina’s brothers as transport (Alberto et al .) and Giuseppe. Karina’s daughter Chaska, Carmen’s daughter, Lucas of course and his friend. If I forgot anyone I include them all in my heart.
Urpichay Sonqoyay! Munay!!
Karina and Celia, Hatun Urpichay and Munay!
Below a poem I wrote inspired by Mama Veronica
Sunrise at Illary Chaska
Mama Veronica accepts the raiment of light
I watch and sit with love as she dons the new light of day
and pay homage to this Apu mother of mine.
So beautiful, so kind and gentle.
I do not even see her glorious snow covered peak from here
but her backside warms me with her soft words and teachings.
If you don’t know what to do, start with me.
Tend, tender, tend her.
I have many caves and crevices
canyons and folds
The clouds honor me with moist, cool
Munay as they
dance across the sky.
I have faces that change with the sun,
shadow and new perspective.
I have been tended
so I am gentle,
deep and powerful.
When you get home
sing me a song.
Play your flute to me.
Greet the sun and imagine it shining over me,
revealing my innermost knowing.
Know I greet you back
with love and an embrace
of a Mother Apu to her daughter,
a kuya of grace and blessing.
———————
Betsy, 9/2/22
Illary Chaska Spiritual Center
(Karina’s Place 🙂
near Ollantaytambo, Peru
70 by 70 Water Immersion 