_{Not a chronological telling but a weaving of musings, memories and images from a pilgrimage.}

For some time now it seems to me that the two questions we should ask of any strong landscape are these: firstly, what do I know when I am in this place that I can know nowhere else and then, vainly, what does this place know of me that I cannot know of myself? Robert Macfarlane, The Old Ways, A Journey on Foot

Friends have asked me to share about my trip to Peru in August/September 2025. This journey was taken as a pilgrimage, my second time to Peru with my spiritual guide, Celia, of Heartstone Healing in Tucson. From a chance meeting years ago (we were guests at her airbnb), there are some things I know of my life’s mystery. I was meant to meet her and to be initiated into the deep earth medicine that comes from high in the Andes as part of my offering and contribution on this ephemeral journey we call life.

I have not, until this moment, told the names I was given over the years in places where I’ve been led by my heart. Years ago, before children but in love with their father, I was given the name Egvnv Mv Mvhe in the Creek tradition as we ceremonied in Northern Florida. This means of the real, true Earth. I had known I was to be given a name, and I was thinking it would be related to my bread making. I was stunned by the depth of this name and did not feel worthy. I rarely shared this with anyone–until now. Fast forward to 2022. In the mountains of Peru at Lagos Humantay, I was initiated into another name, and it happened to be basically the same one, unbeknownst to the Paqo Juan who spoke only Quechua. Pachamama. Mother Earth. Again, I felt unworthy of such an auspicious name, but intrigued by the consistency.

This time, 2025, high in the mountain of Apu Ausungate, a different Paqo Juan had me keep this name, Pachamama. I have timidly embraced this as a living journey, a calling–not a sedentary word but a challenge to boldness, to action, to listening, to praying, to acting. If I am to live up to my name, what would Mother Earth do? What would She say? How would She feel? How can I act through the heartbreak of our species not tending to our Mother?

Last time I was in Peru I had early morning conversations with Apu Wakay Willca, Sacred Tears in Quechua, or Mama Veronica. She’s easy to talk to! On this trip, we got up close and personal with Her. She is beautiful and holy. Even the drive to our ceremony spot was sacred. We purchased candles in a little shop at the pass (where I also found my elusive Peruvian hat) and knelt to make an offering and request for safe travels in a little Catholic church.

what do I know when I am in this place that I can know nowhere else? That is the question. It’s far away and takes some money to go there. And so far I’ve come home both times with covid. But…the landscape itself is a powerful, deep teacher. The sacred mountains speak right into my heart. We can sit and have conversations as though they are my ancestors bequething me some little bits of Mystery. The waters, too, convey joy and comfort and mystery. They acknowledge my connection to water and let me know that my (what I consider) sorry little contribution to groundwater advocacy is important. That my touching the water as prayer is important.

At Kinsa Qocha (qocha meaning big water, in this case a lake), higher than Pisaq at the far end of the Sacred Valley, I went to touch water with my Catholic sign of the cross (in the name of the Father Spirit, Mother Earth, all that is visible, and all that is invisible). I looked down as I touched and saw an interesting rock. Picked it up and it turned out to be a beautiful double crystal. My heart filled with gratitude and comfort. It seemed that this was an acknowledgement of my work with water, prayerfully and politically. It bolstered my heart, and it was a message to me. You’re doing okay, keep going. Hold this crystal as you do your work. Listen, Know what to say and when to say it. What to do and when to do it. Trust.

It’s said that the reason the landscape of Peru is so vibrantly sacred is that Pachamama has been tended. Ceremonies and rituals honoring Pachamama, the sacred heart of this planet, and the cosmos (sun, moon, stars, planets and the Mystery from whence all this arose) are abundant and seen as absolutely necessary for humanity’s survival. Peru’s politics are no less heartbreaking than ours, but their prayer is old and deep. What do I know when I am in this place that I can know nowhere else? I believe it’s the lineage of cherishing the Earth as sacred. Ceremony, ritual, listening, knowing, trusting.

People and Pure joy–baptisms, family, food, connection. We were privileged to take part in a baptism of sorts. A young family from Q’eros drove hours with their little one to take part in a ceremony with us because Celia, my teacher, was to be godmother to their babe in arms. We each cut a little piece of hair from this very tolerant little one and initiated him into ritual, ceremony, earth and family. He is well tended! And loves shaking the rattle, making music and ceremony already!

More of Celia’s godchildren and their families treated us to a BBQ and picnic at Temple of the Moon above Cusco. They drove for hours from Q’eros and graced us with their smiles, wonderful food, and open hearts. Most could only speak Quechua, and most of us only spoke English. But we shared hugs and joy and a lovely walk. And Jordy tried to teach me how to count in Quechua! He was great at English counting but I failed to get past 5 in Quechua. These little ones spent the week in Cusco going to school and the weekends at home in Q’eros. It is said that Q’eros was never conquered by the Spanish, being too high and remote. Thus, the traditions, ceremonies and ritual have survived intact from ancient times. I am so honored and amazed to be taking part in these ancient traditions with such people of heart.

When I heard these words of Robert MacFarlane I knew immediately that these were the questions that would guide my travelogue about Peru 2025. I don’t know if I’ll go back. I didn’t think I was going this time. 🙂 I’m learning to swim in a soup of the Unknown. I’m learning to trust that I’ll know when I’m being called.

Perhaps more to come re some of the sites like Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán, etc. But for now…

This blog will now continue with 80 by 80 inspired by a dip in the waterfall pool at Aguas Calientes near Machu Picchu. 80 waterfalls by the time I turn 80. Ten years to pursue this goal! It will be interesting to see what my “rules” are for this.